Mombasa is one of the most beautiful beach resort towns in East Africa. Posh hotels and restaurants scatter along the Oceanside. Camels walk up and down the beach to attract the attention of tourists by either taking photos with them or riding them. On the weekends, locals gather along the beach playing loud music and swimming in the beautiful warm, crystal blue Indian Ocean. Although, I was some-what tired of being on the mosquito ridden beaches of East Africa, I decided to head on the 8 hour bus ride along a dangerous road ( where just a week before bus had crashed killing all the passengers) hoping for a safe journey.
Just a little background - Public transportation in Africa
The experience of riding on public transportation can be both gruesome and adventurous. Sometimes, you have to wait 2-4 hours for a ‘Dolla Dolla/Matatu’ (mini van) to fill up completely to leave for your destination. Other times, you can break down on the side of the road for hours, without any idea of what’s going on (especially when you don’t speak the language). A driver can also decide that if they feel they don’t have enough passengers to the final destination to just end the journey and drop you off in small town. Then again you have to hope and wait for another ’matatu’ to come. Sometimes if it’s Sunday or late in the evening, you‘re chances are very scarce. Other times you end up on a route, where the driver is chewing mirra ( a stem of a local plant that keeps you awake for many hours), hasn’t slept for a day and is driving you to your destination. Even though its over 100 degrees with humidity, most buses won’t have AC. . Every once in a while, there will be a large bus, that has a time schedule that leaves on time. As I started, most bus rides can be gruesome or adventurous, you pick.
After a long hot bus ride and the lunch stop in the middle of nowhere; we made it to Mombasa. I had the information to contact Marcia at Bombolulu, and would contact her the next day. It was Sunday, and I would spend the rest of the evening on the beach.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
The First Meeting - Nairobi, Kenya
I scheduled to meet Frederick at the Udugu office in Westlands (an area in Nairobi). Without a car, and having to rely on public transportation, he told me it would take at least 2-3 hours to get to the area from where I was staying. He was saying in a nice way, that it was practically impossible for me to know where and how to switch. Although I was discouraged, I took his advice and sent a text to my driver (whom I met at the Marriott hotel 5 star downtown), to arrange to pick me up and take me to Westlands.
Just a little background - Connections, and their importance
In Africa, one of the best places to get direct (almost accurate) advice, is to approach the concierge at the nicest 5 star ( if available) hotel in town. There they are always willing to help, and give you the most knowledgeable advice. I met Moses at the Marriott, through the door man (where security is so tight, you have to go through a metal detector prior to entrance) whom became my driver in Nairobi for the next couple months. Without him, I would have never learned or seen Nairobi, safely. He also provided me with connections throughout all my travels in Kenya. Africans are very networked. Once you are welcomed into their network, you are given opportunities and invitations for a lifetime.
I walked into the Corporate Headquarters of Udugu Society of Kenya. I remember being slightly confused, as there was no site of a receptionist when entering the building. But, I waited patiently (patience - you learn this quickly in Africa), and was greeted politely by an employee and escorted to Frederick’s office. We met and discussed my interests in meeting with producer groups whom they are partnered with. We had a great conversation, but he realized that, Alice whom ran their Fair- Trade gift shop a few floors down would be of better help. Frederick introduced me to Alice. From then on, she became my connection to this new chapter that taught me a lot about Kenya culture and the survival needed to live. She taught me and introduced me to many of their artisans throughout Kenya. I was very excited to work with Alice, as she knows a lot about the industry, and was full of smiles. Since I can’t speak Kiswahili fluently, we decided that I would possibly need a translator to accompany me to meet with some of the artisans.
We had a brief discussion, and shortly there after, we worked to set me up to meet with Bombolulu Workshops in Mombasa. I would return to Nairobi in the next week to meet with local Artisans there.
Just a little background - Connections, and their importance
In Africa, one of the best places to get direct (almost accurate) advice, is to approach the concierge at the nicest 5 star ( if available) hotel in town. There they are always willing to help, and give you the most knowledgeable advice. I met Moses at the Marriott, through the door man (where security is so tight, you have to go through a metal detector prior to entrance) whom became my driver in Nairobi for the next couple months. Without him, I would have never learned or seen Nairobi, safely. He also provided me with connections throughout all my travels in Kenya. Africans are very networked. Once you are welcomed into their network, you are given opportunities and invitations for a lifetime.
I walked into the Corporate Headquarters of Udugu Society of Kenya. I remember being slightly confused, as there was no site of a receptionist when entering the building. But, I waited patiently (patience - you learn this quickly in Africa), and was greeted politely by an employee and escorted to Frederick’s office. We met and discussed my interests in meeting with producer groups whom they are partnered with. We had a great conversation, but he realized that, Alice whom ran their Fair- Trade gift shop a few floors down would be of better help. Frederick introduced me to Alice. From then on, she became my connection to this new chapter that taught me a lot about Kenya culture and the survival needed to live. She taught me and introduced me to many of their artisans throughout Kenya. I was very excited to work with Alice, as she knows a lot about the industry, and was full of smiles. Since I can’t speak Kiswahili fluently, we decided that I would possibly need a translator to accompany me to meet with some of the artisans.
We had a brief discussion, and shortly there after, we worked to set me up to meet with Bombolulu Workshops in Mombasa. I would return to Nairobi in the next week to meet with local Artisans there.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Setting up the initial meeting ‘African Style’
After reaching out to countless organizations via the internet, each attempt brought not one successful connection; it was time to try another method.
A few days passed, and ‘Eureka! I heard from the first organization. Undugu. What a relief. I was excited, as I wasn’t sure how I would connect with these organizations, when the only other information on their ‘Contact Us’ section was a PO Box. It turns out, some of the organizations have since added phone numbers.
The first connection was what felt like a miracle, but nothing in Africa ever turns out to be this easy. We came across our next obstacle. Although, the company had said to have an office in Tanzania; headquarters was now in Nairobi, Kenya. After many weeks of trying to just get a response back from an organization, disappointment set in. I wasn’t quite sure when I would be crossing the border into Kenya, but knew my next adventure would soon begin.
A month later, I made my way via plane and bus to Nairobi, Kenya. The biggest Africa city, I had been in. Prior to my arrival, I reached out to Undugu, to let them know of my arrival. They were excited to meet me. I received the Head man’s mobile number, and was asked to be in touch upon arrival.
Just a little background – Internet, Power, and Mobile Phones:
Internet connection is not only unpredictable, but can also be completely unreliable. You not only rely on the satellite connection to be functional, but also you need to have electricity to use your computer. The frequency, in which the power goes out in Africa, can easily be a few times per week. Alternatively, generators have allowed most businesses to run normally, with only glitches on occasion. Also, not only are frequent power outages a problem, but theft and other outside circumstances has moved most of Africa into a mobile phone society. You don’t need more than a local tower and top up cards to allow most individuals access to a mobile. It’s not only the way you can connect with each other, but (as I found out) also the way to set up work meetings, and send money to family, amongst other things.
Needless to say, I set up my first ‘text’ meeting with the Head Man at Udugu. To them it was normal; to me it seemed very unprofessional. How would I get all the information I need, into 1 - 160 letter text. 30 minutes later, I had composed my first text message meeting request. I received an instant response. I soon realized that this was the best way to do business in Africa. Text Message – Meeting Requests.
A few days passed, and ‘Eureka! I heard from the first organization. Undugu. What a relief. I was excited, as I wasn’t sure how I would connect with these organizations, when the only other information on their ‘Contact Us’ section was a PO Box. It turns out, some of the organizations have since added phone numbers.
The first connection was what felt like a miracle, but nothing in Africa ever turns out to be this easy. We came across our next obstacle. Although, the company had said to have an office in Tanzania; headquarters was now in Nairobi, Kenya. After many weeks of trying to just get a response back from an organization, disappointment set in. I wasn’t quite sure when I would be crossing the border into Kenya, but knew my next adventure would soon begin.
A month later, I made my way via plane and bus to Nairobi, Kenya. The biggest Africa city, I had been in. Prior to my arrival, I reached out to Undugu, to let them know of my arrival. They were excited to meet me. I received the Head man’s mobile number, and was asked to be in touch upon arrival.
Just a little background – Internet, Power, and Mobile Phones:
Internet connection is not only unpredictable, but can also be completely unreliable. You not only rely on the satellite connection to be functional, but also you need to have electricity to use your computer. The frequency, in which the power goes out in Africa, can easily be a few times per week. Alternatively, generators have allowed most businesses to run normally, with only glitches on occasion. Also, not only are frequent power outages a problem, but theft and other outside circumstances has moved most of Africa into a mobile phone society. You don’t need more than a local tower and top up cards to allow most individuals access to a mobile. It’s not only the way you can connect with each other, but (as I found out) also the way to set up work meetings, and send money to family, amongst other things.
Needless to say, I set up my first ‘text’ meeting with the Head Man at Udugu. To them it was normal; to me it seemed very unprofessional. How would I get all the information I need, into 1 - 160 letter text. 30 minutes later, I had composed my first text message meeting request. I received an instant response. I soon realized that this was the best way to do business in Africa. Text Message – Meeting Requests.
Introduction to the series on East African Artisans
Africa is one of the most impoverished continents on this planet, containing some of the poorest countries in the world.
I had the opportunity to travel and live in Africa for about 6 months (by the time I left, I was there for 9 months, and got malaria twice), and I was starting get a glimpse and understanding about both business and societal issues that occur within the countries in which I had visited. But it wasn't enough. I wanted to get deeper, and try to understand what type of impact, if any our western society has in developing countries worldwide. So, I took up an opportunity given to me by the Founder of eBay's WOG division to photograph and interview the Artisans of East Africa. What I didn't realize was that it was going to provide me with a look into their culture in which I hope to describe into words throughout my blog.
The companies that are featured in my blog are not necessarily the companies in which eBay's WOG buys their products from, but ones which are similar to those in which they partner with in Africa. Everything written on this blog is from my own personal experience and encounter's, which I feel very fortunate to have had, with the help of WOG.
I had the opportunity to travel and live in Africa for about 6 months (by the time I left, I was there for 9 months, and got malaria twice), and I was starting get a glimpse and understanding about both business and societal issues that occur within the countries in which I had visited. But it wasn't enough. I wanted to get deeper, and try to understand what type of impact, if any our western society has in developing countries worldwide. So, I took up an opportunity given to me by the Founder of eBay's WOG division to photograph and interview the Artisans of East Africa. What I didn't realize was that it was going to provide me with a look into their culture in which I hope to describe into words throughout my blog.
The companies that are featured in my blog are not necessarily the companies in which eBay's WOG buys their products from, but ones which are similar to those in which they partner with in Africa. Everything written on this blog is from my own personal experience and encounter's, which I feel very fortunate to have had, with the help of WOG.
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